{"id":55874,"date":"2025-12-08T14:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-12-08T14:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/?p=55874"},"modified":"2025-12-09T20:06:41","modified_gmt":"2025-12-09T20:06:41","slug":"women-bearing-burdens-of-fashion-overproduction","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/women-bearing-burdens-of-fashion-overproduction\/","title":{"rendered":"The Women Who Bear the Burden of Fashion&#8217;s Overproduction Problem"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center is-style-subtitle\"><em>Words by Nana Akua A Mensah, with photography by Faiza Salman and Tonia-Marie Parker<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Kantamanto is more than a market. It is its own ecosystem, sustained by tens of thousands of people who sort, mend, and reimagine excess clothing discarded by the original consumers. But today, even this most innovative of systems is being pushed to its breaking point.<\/h3>\n\n\n<section id=\"page-block-block_b0cfbaf400ce6b36a0f80e3fe8887f1b\" class=\"acf-block block-content-section has-mist-background-color\">\n\t<div class=\"container\">\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Watch the short film<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<div class='iframe-wrapper youtube' data-video-id='LKZ5aaS0Rs0' data-image-src='https:\/\/img.youtube.com\/vi\/LKZ5aaS0Rs0\/maxresdefault.jpg'>\n\t\t\t\t<div class='iframe-wrapper__overlay' style='background-image: url(https:\/\/img.youtube.com\/vi\/LKZ5aaS0Rs0\/maxresdefault.jpg);'>\n\t\t\t\t\t<button class='iframe-wrapper__play' aria-label='Play Video'><\/button>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<iframe title=\"youtube video\" title=\"From Store to Shore\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" loading=\"lazy\" data-src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/LKZ5aaS0Rs0?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h6 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center\">Director: <em>Tonia-Marie Parker<\/em> Co-Director:<em> Faiza Salman<\/em> Director of Photography: <em>Julius Tornyi&nbsp;<\/em>Production: <em>The Or Foundation<\/em>&nbsp;Editor and Sound Designer: <em>Nunana Linda Amemordzi<\/em> Production Coordinator: <em>Henry Wright Annan<\/em> Voice Over:<em> Nana Adoma Asare Adei,&nbsp;Stella Oppong Agyare, Fideis Issah<\/em><\/h6>\n\n\n\t<\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Rows of single-use t-shirts from marathons, conferences, and family reunions hang displayed on the stalls of secondhand clothing vendors that line one of the entrances to the world\u2019s largest secondhand market, Kantamanto.<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The image of these often context-specific objects, striking not only for their abundance but also for their absurdity in a new place where the messages they carry are unfamiliar, offers a prescient preview of the market.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Located in the heart of the business district of Accra, Ghana, Kantamanto is spilling over with fabric and materials, color, and activity. The Accra Metropolitan Assembly estimates that about <strong>30,000 people earn their livelihoods in the market<\/strong>, working as traders, menders, upcyclers, leatherworkers, food vendors, and porters. Each person contributes to a remarkable infrastructure that has been organically built, adapted, and refined since the 1950s, when the secondhand clothing trade first took hold in Ghana. Together, they have created an ecosystem of care and ingenuity; they sort, repair, and bring new life to the excess clothing that is cast off from the Global North.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>And yet, even with all this labor, the system is overwhelmed.<\/strong> Everywhere you look, there is fabric: towering piles on the side of the street, draped over the arms of traders on the move looking for customers, and bursting from bags in vendors\u2019 stalls. The sheer volume of clothing arrives faster than Kantamanto\u2019s workers can absorb it. What emerges is an integral community, led largely by women, who have innovated one of the most authentic circular economies in the world, persisting in the face of the unyielding excess of fashion\u2019s waste.<\/p>\n\n\n<section id=\"page-block-block_3de884564c73426b16fec86d4212d60a\" class=\"acf-block block-img-comp\">\n\t\t<div class=\"container-fluid\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"row fluid-two-small\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-4\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-1x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"711\" height=\"474\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-711x474.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-standard-width-block size-standard-width-block\" alt=\"Secondhand clothing bales being offloaded off the shipping trucks at the Importers yard in the Kantamanto Market\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-711x474.jpeg 711w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-720x480.jpeg 720w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-900x600.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-335x223.jpeg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-711x474@2x.jpeg 1422w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-720x480@2x.jpeg 1440w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-900x600@2x.jpeg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-being-offloaded-off-the-shipping-trucks-at-the-Importers-yard-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-335x223@2x.jpeg 670w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-8\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-2x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1680\" height=\"945\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-1680x945.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"Portrait of Madam Gloria Asiamah\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-1680x945.jpeg 1680w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-410x232.jpeg 410w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-190x106.jpeg 190w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-853x480.jpeg 853w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-900x506.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-740x416.jpeg 740w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-335x188.jpeg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-240x135.jpeg 240w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large.jpeg 1820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-410x232@2x.jpeg 820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-190x106@2x.jpeg 380w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-853x480@2x.jpeg 1706w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-900x506@2x.jpeg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-740x416@2x.jpeg 1480w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-335x188@2x.jpeg 670w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Madam-Gloria-Asiamah-large-240x135@2x.jpeg 480w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"row fluid-two-small\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-4 order-last\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-1x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"710\" height=\"474\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-710x474.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-standard-width-block size-standard-width-block\" alt=\"Secondhand clothing bales overflowing from a stall in the Kantamanto Market\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-710x474.jpeg 710w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large.jpeg 1535w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-719x480.jpeg 719w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-900x600.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-335x224.jpeg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-710x474@2x.jpeg 1420w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-719x480@2x.jpeg 1438w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-900x600@2x.jpeg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Secondhand-clothing-bales-overflowing-from-a-stall-in-the-Kantamanto-Market_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-335x224@2x.jpeg 670w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-8 order-first\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-2x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1680\" height=\"945\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-1680x945.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"Photo of two women Fideis Issah and Monica Edwards\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-1680x945.jpeg 1680w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-410x232.jpeg 410w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-190x106.jpeg 190w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-853x480.jpeg 853w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-900x506.jpeg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-740x416.jpeg 740w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-335x188.jpeg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-240x135.jpeg 240w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large.jpeg 1820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-410x232@2x.jpeg 820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-190x106@2x.jpeg 380w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-853x480@2x.jpeg 1706w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-900x506@2x.jpeg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-740x416@2x.jpeg 1480w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-335x188@2x.jpeg 670w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Still-photo-of-Firdeis-Issah-and-Monica-Edwards-large-240x135@2x.jpeg 480w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p>An estimated<strong> 15 million garments <\/strong>passed through the Kantamanto market every week before the tragic fire that destroyed 60% of the market in January 2025, slowing down business. With the meteoric rise of fast fashion, the global fashion and apparel industry produces an ever-increasing number of new garments each year. The approach to fashion consumption has shifted dramatically over the last two decades: where clothing was once intended to be re-worn, cared for, and mended, it is now thought of as inherently disposable, made to be worn a few times\u2014or sometimes never\u2014and quickly replaced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For many in the Global North, clothing donations are marketed as a socially positive act, extending the life of an item while unintentionally taking on the responsibility for where it ends up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But for clothing donations to have a net positive impact, there would need to be a clothing deficit\u2014people or causes who need these items that are being donated. And yet, places like Kantamanto, where the clothing ends up, tell us a much more complex story.<\/p>\n\n\n<section id=\"page-block-block_b919720563d47a4ef25b37e0509eebc4\" class=\"acf-block block-content-image has-spring-background-color\">\n\t\t<div class=\"container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"row align-items-center\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__col col-12 col-lg-5 offset-lg-1 content-right order-lg-last\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__content-wrapper\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h4>\u201cIt is not like it used to be,\u201d says Maame Rosina, a veteran retailer who has worked in Kantamanto for nearly 30 years.<\/h4>\n<h4>\u201cWhen we opened the bales back then, the items were good quality. We could sell out of our stock completely. But now, out of every 100 items, 60 or 70 are unusable. It\u2019s a waste problem, and frankly, it\u2019s a waste of money that we can\u2019t afford to lose.\u201d<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__col col-12 col-lg-6 image-left order-lg-first\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-1x1 ratio-lg-3x4 block-content-image__image\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"630\" height=\"838\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-vertical-image-xl size-vertical-image-xl\" alt=\"A Kayayei (headporter) carrying a 55kg bale through the Kantamanto market\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838.jpeg 630w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-360x480.jpeg 360w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-300x400.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838@2x.jpeg 1260w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-360x480@2x.jpeg 720w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/A-Kayayei-headporter-carrying-a-55kg-bale-through-the-Kantamanto-market_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-300x400@2x.jpeg 600w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p>Ghana is one of the largest importers of secondhand clothing in the world, <strong>importing over 147,000 metric tons of secondhand clothing<\/strong> in 2023 according to UN Comtrade. These shipments of clothing are the raw materials for the bustling trade. Importers mark up the price of secondhand clothing bales shipped in from major exporting countries like the UK, the EU, and China, selling them to retailers like Rosina for an average of $200, with some bales such as children\u2019s clothing sold for over $700 per bale. Retailers purchase the bales without first seeing the contents and they cannot contact the exporter or return a bad bale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For decades, this gamble paid off. Enough of the garments inside the average bale were high-quality, durable, and easily resold. Such sales funded the repair or upcycling of the lower-quality items that would arrive in every bale. <strong>But today, the risk far outpaces the reward.<\/strong> Over half of the items in each bale are worth less than the cost to process them\u2014including transport, storage, and sanitation. This shift is driving retailers into debt and threatening a collapse of one of the largest reuse and upcycling economies in the world.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Rosina reports that many women in Kantamanto take out loans to buy these bales. When the clothes inside are unsellable, they are left with debt, stress, and piles of waste clothing. \u201cWe pass the things we can\u2019t sell to the younger men in the smaller stalls outside the market,\u201d she explains. \u201cBut because the items are in such bad condition, they often can\u2019t sell them either. So the clothes end up on the side of the road or in dumpsites.\u201d At a time when the fashion industry generally supports the ambition to transition to a circular economy, the precarity of the global secondhand clothing trade in Kantamanto Market raises an alarm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The Or Foundation supported women like Rosina to form the Kantamanto Women\u2019s Association to give them a united voice. <\/strong>With membership from across the entire ecosystem of the market\u2014resellers, tailors, upcyclers, food vendors, and porters\u2014the association responds to a reality where women are the backbone of the secondhand trade, but lack access to retirement, welfare, or other protections. \u201cWhen we first called a meeting to form the Association, we expected about a hundred people to attend,\u201d Rosina recalls. \u201cBut the space was overwhelmed with women. You could see that we really needed this.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<section id=\"page-block-block_626cbee07a872c8b87074bbd391c5a2f\" class=\"acf-block block-content-image has-sand-background-color\">\n\t\t<div class=\"container\">\n\t\t<div class=\"row align-items-center\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__col col-12 col-lg-5 content-left\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__content-wrapper\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<h4>For some, like Ruth Otoo, who has worked as an upcycler for 15 years, survival in Kantamanto means transforming secondhand clothing entirely.<\/h4>\n<h4>\u201cWhen items in the bales are not good enough to sell, we find ways to reimagine them,\u201d she says. \u201cWe turn them into kids\u2019 clothes, napkins, or sheets to save them from going to waste.\u201d<\/h4>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<div class=\"block-content-image__col col-12 col-lg-6 offset-lg-1 image-right order-lg-last\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-1x1 ratio-lg-3x4 block-content-image__image\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"630\" height=\"838\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-vertical-image-xl size-vertical-image-xl\" alt=\"Denim jeans being pulled out of a sack full of second-hand clothing\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838.jpeg 630w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-360x480.jpeg 360w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-300x400.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-630x838@2x.jpeg 1260w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-360x480@2x.jpeg 720w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Denim-Jeans-being-pulled-out-of-a-sack-full-of-denim-jeans_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-300x400@2x.jpeg 600w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p>But even this ingenuity is being eroded. <strong>\u201cThe contents of the bales are so bad now that even what we can upcycle has reduced,\u201d<\/strong> Ruth says. \u201cAnd when the third-level resellers take these items, they try to upcycle them, but usually are unable to produce pieces that anyone wants to buy. So the clothes are dumped on the roadside, making their way into gutters or waterways. We were never affected by floods in Kantamanto before. But now, we are. And our beaches are so polluted that we can\u2019t even enjoy a day there anymore. <strong>When you\u2019re in the water, you\u2019re surrounded by waste clothing.<\/strong>\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That waste is now showing up on Accra\u2019s coastline, where The Or Foundation runs Accra\u2019s largest beach cleanup program.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Every Tuesday, a team of 60 people, called the Tide Turners, alongside volunteers, gathers at Jamestown Beach in Accra to clear the shores of what waste they can.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u201cWe go to the beach every Tuesday, and we remove about 20 tons of waste clothing every week,\u201d says Fideis Issah, one of the women employed by Tide Turners. \u201cWe deserve to have clean beaches as a place to relax and spend time with our friends. But with the state of the water now, no one wants to spend time there.\u201d<\/h4>\n\n\n<section id=\"page-block-block_a7c51a824757cfd5ea89bce366a6b531\" class=\"acf-block block-img-comp\">\n\t\t<div class=\"container-fluid\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"row fluid-two-small\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-4 order-last\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-1x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"740\" height=\"416\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-740x416.jpg\" class=\"attachment-standard-width-block size-standard-width-block\" alt=\"Textile waste washed up on the beach in Accra, Ghana\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-740x416.jpg 740w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-1680x945.jpg 1680w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-190x106.jpg 190w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-1290x724.jpg 1290w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-853x480.jpg 853w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-900x506.jpg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-335x188.jpg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-240x135.jpg 240w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-scaled.jpg 1820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-740x416@2x.jpg 1480w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-190x106@2x.jpg 380w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-853x480@2x.jpg 1706w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-900x506@2x.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-335x188@2x.jpg 670w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-2-240x135@2x.jpg 480w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-8 order-first\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-2x1 block-img-single\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1536\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-1536x1024.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"Members of the Tide Turners crew identifying tags during the teams weekly cleanup at the King Shasha beach\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-720x480.jpeg 720w, 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https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-900x600@2x.jpeg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-711x474@2x.jpeg 1422w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Members-of-the-Tide-Turners-crew-identifying-tags-during-the-teams-weekly-cleanup-at-the-King-Shasha-beach_photographed-by-Faiza-Salman_The-Or-Foundation-large-335x223@2x.jpeg 670w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<div class=\"row fluid-two-small\">\n\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-4\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-16x9 block-img-single small-top\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"740\" height=\"416\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-740x416.jpg\" class=\"attachment-standard-width-block size-standard-width-block\" alt=\"Textile waste on the beach in Accra, Ghana\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-740x416.jpg 740w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-1680x945.jpg 1680w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-190x106.jpg 190w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-1290x724.jpg 1290w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-853x480.jpg 853w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-900x506.jpg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-335x188.jpg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-240x135.jpg 240w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana.jpg 1820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-740x416@2x.jpg 1480w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-190x106@2x.jpg 380w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-853x480@2x.jpg 1706w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-900x506@2x.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-335x188@2x.jpg 670w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2024\/03\/Textile-waste-washed-up-on-the-beach-Accra-Ghana-240x135@2x.jpg 480w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-16x9 block-img-single small-bottom\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"740\" height=\"416\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-740x416.jpg\" class=\"attachment-standard-width-block size-standard-width-block\" alt=\"The Tide Turners team cleaning up textile waste on the beach in Accra, Ghana\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-740x416.jpg 740w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-1680x945.jpg 1680w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-190x106.jpg 190w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-1290x724.jpg 1290w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-853x480.jpg 853w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-900x506.jpg 900w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-335x188.jpg 335w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-240x135.jpg 240w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33.jpg 1820w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-740x416@2x.jpg 1480w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-190x106@2x.jpg 380w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-853x480@2x.jpg 1706w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-900x506@2x.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-335x188@2x.jpg 670w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/33-240x135@2x.jpg 480w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"col-12 col-md-8\">\n\t\t\t\t<figure class=\"aspectratio ratio-16x9 block-img-single wide-large\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-683x1024.jpeg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large\" alt=\"Fideis Issah, a Tide Turners crew member, holding up a piece of clothing found on the shores during weekly cleanup\" srcset=\"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-683x1024.jpeg 683w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-320x480.jpeg 320w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-666x999.jpeg 666w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-316x474.jpeg 316w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-168x252.jpeg 168w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-scaled.jpeg 1200w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-683x1024@2x.jpeg 1366w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-320x480@2x.jpeg 640w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-666x999@2x.jpeg 1332w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-316x474@2x.jpeg 632w, https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2025\/12\/Firdeis-Issah-a-Tide-Turners-crew-member-holding-up-a-piece-of-clothing-found-on-the-shores-during-weekly-cleanup_photographed-by-Tonia-Marie-Parker_The-Or-Foundation-large-168x252@2x.jpeg 336w\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n\n<p>Fideis Issah is part of a team that cuts the tags off the clothes collected from the beaches, an initiative designed to track and hold brands accountable for the waste they generate. She says she recognizes many of the labels: big-name brands from the Global North that wash to the surface in Accra\u2019s waters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Through their interactions with organizations like The Or Foundation, many women in the market are piecing together a clearer picture of where their labor sits in the global fashion system. \u201cI have learned that only a fraction of clothing produced is resold in the Global North, with most ending up in markets like Kantamanto,\u201d Rosina says. <strong>\u201cSo women like us are doing more work for the fashion industry than we are recognized for.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>And it is a Herculean task that these women shoulder. Over decades, they have built an economy of reuse, upcycling, mending, and remanufacturing\u2014a true exemplar of circularity that the fashion industry could learn from. But they cannot continue to carry the weight of a broken system, however innovative their efforts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The burden of excessive textile and clothing waste cannot rest solely with the women of Kantamanto. For the industry to move toward a fairer future, brands and producers must play their part in addressing the system\u2019s imbalances by taking the responsibility for the end of life of their products\u2014what happens to them once they have left the store. As Rosina puts it plainly: <strong>\u201cThese brands owe us. We work for them.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&#8220;From Store to Shore&#8221; is a film by Textile Exchange that traces the journey of excess clothing from the Global North to the shores of Accra, Ghana. In the heart of the city lies Kantamanto Market\u2014one of the world\u2019s largest secondhand markets\u2014where tens of thousands of people have built an ecosystem of care and ingenuity rooted in reuse, upcycling, mending, and remanufacturing. This system is at once ingenious and increasingly fragile. 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