{"id":44852,"date":"2023-10-19T05:59:14","date_gmt":"2023-10-19T10:59:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/?p=44852"},"modified":"2023-10-19T06:06:33","modified_gmt":"2023-10-19T11:06:33","slug":"textile-recycling-sodra-kipas-santis-eastman","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/textile-recycling-sodra-kipas-santis-eastman\/","title":{"rendered":"Discovering Insider Insights on Textile-to-Textile Recycling with S\u00f6dra, Kipa\u015f & S\u00e4ntis, and Eastman"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Image: RAY V\u00c1ZQUEZ<\/em><\/h6>\n\n\n\n


Three of our sponsors for the Textile Exchange Conference 2023 \u2013 S\u00f6dra, Kipas & Santis, and Eastman \u2013 are all leading organizations in the textile recycling space.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n


We spoke with the three companies to get an insider perspective on their latest innovations, the key challenges and opportunities they see today, and the importance of collaboration in scaling circular solutions.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tS\u00f6dra\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h2>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tFounded in 1938, S\u00f6dra is a cooperative of 52,000 family foresters in southern Sweden who specialize in producing products from renewable, certified resources: their forests. The company also invests in initiatives such as OnceMore\u00ae \u2013 an innovative approach to industrial-scale textile waste recycling, combining post-consumer textile waste with renewable wood to produce high-quality textile pulp.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHow can actors along the entire value chain participate in scaling circular solutions?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tIf we are going to make a real difference to the circular textile industry, collaboration at all levels is essential. Starting at the national level, we need legislation mandating the creation of textile recycling infrastructure.
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\r\nWhat do most people do with an old shirt? Usually, they throw them in the bin, as they don\u2019t know what else to do. Therefore, we need accessible, easy-to-use collection and sorting facilities \u2013 like those we already use for household waste. Once we have the infrastructure, we then need to educate consumers on the importance of playing their part, so they use the facilities regularly and correctly.
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\r\nWe\u2019re seeing more and more retailer initiatives incentivising consumers to recycle their textiles at the point of sale. This is promising, but it\u2019s just the start. Currently, we cannot take a mixed bin from a retailer containing bags, shoes, belts, and used textiles. We need far more collection points, and we need the textiles to be sorted.
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\r\nThis means everyone in the value chain has a responsibility here, from legislators and brands to textile manufacturers and raw material suppliers. We need to join forces wherever possible and engage with what we call Return, Revive, Reduce. Return means establishing a network of services to gather the materials. Revive means giving new life to post-consumer textile waste by combining it with cellulose from sustainably managed forests, and Reduce means designing products that are recyclable and biodegradable in the first place \u2013 so we don\u2019t feed the problem.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHow should producers be thinking about recyclability at the design stage?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tAgain, collaboration is key. Brands need to communicate with raw material suppliers about expectations, performance, and recyclability.
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\r\nGarment labeling needs to be transparent and informative. What should the consumer do with the garment when its first life has ended? How can it be recycled? Which parts might not be recyclable?
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\r\nDesigners also need to ask themselves whether a non-recyclable component is truly necessary. Mono materials are easier to recycle, but they\u2019re not always the best option. For example, it\u2019s easier to justify several components for a high-performance garment with a life expectancy of 15 years, than for a shirt that will be worn just a few times. Does the shirt really need a non-recyclable trim? These are the questions to ask at the design stage.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat are the main goals for OnceMore\u00ae in the next 5 years?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tOur company was founded almost a century ago, but we\u2019re just at the start of the journey toward creating a more sustainable, circular textile business model.
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\r\nIn a relatively short space of time, we\u2019ve taken OnceMore\u00ae from an idea in our labs to a viable sustainable textile fiber. In our view, the success of OnceMore\u00ae lies in the fact that we control the wood supply from seedling to finished product.
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\r\nWe\u2019re planning to increase capacity, with a new production facility scheduled for 2027. By then, the aim is to offer a textile fiber that is 50% post-consumer textile waste and 50% sustainably sourced wood. We will have the technology in place to separate trims, and we plan to expand our current scope of handling white and pale polycotton blends to include colored materials too. We are also working on more materials like elastane.
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\r\nOverall, we hope to continue working with and supporting brands, retailers, and recyclers to improve recycling facilities, while helping to educate consumers too. \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/section>\n\t\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tKipa\u015f & S\u00e4ntis\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h2>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThrough their long-standing partnership, Kipa\u015f Textiles and S\u00e4ntis Textiles have developed RCO100 \u2013 a 100% recycled yarn and fabric made from cotton waste. Based in Kahramanmara\u015f, Turkey, Kipa\u015f Textiles has a production capacity of 80 million meters of fabric per year and 330 tons of yarn per day, making it Turkey and Europe\u2019s largest integrated manufacturer of yarn and fabric. S\u00e4ntis Textiles is a family-owned and run Swiss company specializing in technology and fabric development and sourcing, and are responsible for inventing and developing the RCO100 technology. \t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat was the importance of your partnership in accelerating the production of 100% recycled cotton yarns from cotton waste?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tOur partnership has evolved significantly since we began our journey together. However, even after years of working together, we continue to inspire one another, and our partnership is key to helping drive toward our goals. Stefan, the owner of S\u00e4ntis Textiles and Halit, chairman and director of Kipa\u015f Holdings, share the same values as leaders. They are both driven by an approach that is efficient and solution-oriented, striving to overcome the challenges of textile-to-textile recycling.
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\r\nFrom the beginning, Stefan established a friendship to bring his innovation directly to Kipa\u015f. While this is a relatively rare move for innovators to make, we believe this kind of collaboration is key for unlocking industry progress. Working in this way means that we can take a holistic approach, drawing on and maximizing each other\u2019s expertise. For example, Kipa\u015f\u2019 Research and Development facilities allow us to drive forward the highest standards for recycled cotton, and S\u00e4ntis\u2019 technology means we can find the best ways to spin our RCO100 yarns directly from the machine systems.
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\r\nAll in all, our partnership has played an essential role in enabling us to accelerate the production of 100% mechanically recycled cotton. We hope we can serve as an example for the fashion, textile, and apparel industry, highlighting the expanded possibilities that come when we look to alternative models that prioritize collaboration over working in isolation.
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\r\nLooking forward, our main goal is to continue to make recycled cotton accessible to the industry through the RCO100 umbrella brand, while working to educate the whole supply chain on the importance of building close and genuine relationships with partner companies to help pave the way to a more sustainable and circular textile industry.
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat is next on the horizon for Kipa\u015f and S\u00e4ntis?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tLaunching our RCO100 machine system as fully commercial at ITMA in Milan was a real highlight this year for both companies, although the RCO100 100% recycled cotton from Kipa\u015f has been fully commercial since 2019. Looking to the future, as S\u00e4ntis Textiles licenses the RCO100 brand of textiles and technology, we are planning to expand the system, launching more components and modules such as elastance extractors and a FibreTrace\u00ae dosing system.
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\r\nAs always, our key focus will be on maintaining the highest quality possible with all our textile-to-textile recycling products and processes. We are proud to never settle for downcycling, whereby the recycling process reduces the quality of the result.
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\r\nIn the coming years, we hope to see our RCO100 machine system introduced in more supply chains, increasing the availability of more sustainable fibers, yarns, and fabrics to overall reduce the industry\u2019s reliance on virgin resources, chemicals, water, and energy.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/section>\n\t\n\n\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tEastman\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h2>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tEastman is a material innovation company spanning a range of sectors, from agriculture and transportation to textiles. The company has created Naia\u2122 Renew, a fiber made from 40% waste materials (recycled content is achieved by allocation of recycled waste material using an ISCC-certified mass balance process) \u2013 using Eastman\u2019s patented carbon renewal technology \u2013 and 60% wood pulp, sourced from sustainably managed pine and eucalyptus forests and plantations.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t What are the unique benefits of Eastman\u2019s patented approach to recycling that uses carbon renewal technology?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tUsing our patented molecular recycling technology, we transform waste that would otherwise go to landfill or incinerators into biodegradable fibers. This patented process means we can break down the waste material to its basic molecules, which are then converted into acetic acid, which is a core feedstock in the production of Naia\u2122 Renew acetate fiber (40%). This technology is capable of recycling blended waste materials, which otherwise represent a major challenge to scaling circularity in the textile industry.
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\r\nOur approach is to target waste streams that cannot be recycled through traditional mechanical recycling systems. Today, we use a variety of feedstocks, with one example being post-consumer carpet textiles sourced from California.
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\r\nThrough this advanced recycling process there is no compromise on quality, and the output has virgin-like performance. We are proud to have achieved a 35% reduction in carbon footprint with Naia\u2122 Renew compared to our traditional Naia\u2122 products.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWith the wood pulp used to make Naia\u2122 fibers, what does Eastman do to not only prevent deforestation of protected forests, but also to actively restore and regenerate?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe air we breathe is dependent on our forests. Forests are carbon storage powerhouses, so preserving them is critical for conserving watersheds, avoiding soil erosion, protecting biodiversity, and stabilizing the climate.
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\r\nAligned to Canopy standards, Eastman\u2019s dissolving wood pulp sourcing policy prohibits the sourcing of dissolving wood pulp from controversial sources, endangered species habitats, illegal forestry, and forestry in violation of traditional, community, and\/or civil rights. Our policy is to promote sustainable forest management practices and reduce ecological and environmental impacts in the supply chain.
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\r\nWe teamed up with our wood pulp supplier Georgia-Pacific Cellulose and Longleaf Alliance to provide 60,000 longleaf pine seedlings to Torreya State Park in Northwest Florida. This was all part of a larger effort to restore important longleaf habitats that provide homes to endangered, threatened, and at-risk species, as well as help protect Florida’s water quality. The Torreya State Park site was chosen because of the devastation in the area from Hurricane Michael in 2018.
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\r\nOne of our sustainability goals is to actively engage in advocacy and programs to protect forest ecosystems and support thriving communities through membership and contribution to MMCF initiatives, while following the principle of Free, Prior and Informed Consent. This year, we announced a partnership with Bracell, one of our wood pulp suppliers, and SOS MATA Atlantica, a Brazilian-based NGO. Together, we are contributing to Forest of the Future program in the Atlantic Forest region.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWhat role does collaboration play in helping Eastman to develop innovative material solutions?\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/h4>\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tCollaboration means everything to us, and we recognize that driving forward viable solutions is only possible if we collaborate.
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\r\nFor example, our 2025 goal is for more than 25% of our recycled content to be derived from waste materials. To achieve this, we need to see systematic changes in collecting and sorting, which in turn require active engagement with multiple value chain players. Partnering with strategic initiatives such as Fashion for Good\u2019s Sorting for Circularity USA and Accelerating Circularity\u2019s Alliance for Chemical Textiles Recyclers (ACTR) is vital for helping us to advance large-scale textile circularity.
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\r\nLast year, we launched Naia\u2122 Renew ES (Enhanced Sustainability), which is made with 60% recycled content \u2013 20% recycled cellulose and 40% waste materials. This innovation was made possible through our collaboration with partners throughout the value chain.\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\n\t<\/section>\n\t\n\n\n

Thank you to all of our Textile Exchange Conference 2023 sponsors.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We spoke with Sodra, Kipas, Santis, and Eastman about their latest innovations and the importance of collaboration in scaling circular 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