{"id":41100,"date":"2023-01-26T07:35:00","date_gmt":"2023-01-26T13:35:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/?p=41100"},"modified":"2023-06-09T06:17:49","modified_gmt":"2023-06-09T11:17:49","slug":"megan-stoneburner-45-percent-reduction-strategic-materials","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/megan-stoneburner-45-percent-reduction-strategic-materials\/","title":{"rendered":"Mapping Out the\u00a0Road to a 45% GHG Reduction for Fibers and Raw Materials"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><em>Our director of Fibers and Materials, \u200b\u200b\u200b\u200b\u200bMegan Stoneburner, outlines the need for a holistic approach to achieving a 45% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions while protecting biodiversity and water, and improving soil health across strategic fiber types.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The&nbsp;clock is ticking. If fiber production and consumption continues at its current rate,&nbsp;the fashion and textile industry will not meet our shared Climate+ goal. We will fall short of&nbsp;the 45% drop in greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions we aim to reach by 2030, and we will not have played our part in climate action to&nbsp;the&nbsp;level we\u2019re capable of.&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>Decisive action is necessary. But&nbsp;the&nbsp;reality of&nbsp;the&nbsp;present situation is that&nbsp;there are gaps across all fiber categories. Simply put,&nbsp;there are things we don\u2019t know. But&nbsp;there are things we&nbsp;<em>do<\/em>&nbsp;know, and our report, &#8220;<a href=\"https:\/\/go.textileexchange.org\/e\/978973\/a12-e920a088b9b0-forceDialog-0\/56zmc\/415530481?h=FUSVLMnSzJgKB0gajxpyry7aLrntKgfS2LZS-00OloA\">Fiber Pathways:&nbsp;The&nbsp;Road to a 45% Reduction<\/a>&#8221; defines a direction of travel&nbsp;which, if followed, will start&nbsp;the&nbsp;transformation of&nbsp;the&nbsp;industry,&nbsp;the successful achievement of our Climate+ goals, and a more responsible future for everyone.<br>&nbsp;<br>Based on our modeling, even if current and existing, proven solutions available in&nbsp;the market reach 50% of total fiber and raw materials production,&nbsp;the&nbsp;savings in GHG emissions will only account for a third of&nbsp;the&nbsp;total reduction targets set. That\u2019s why material substitution is just&nbsp;the&nbsp;first of three necessary levers to pull to reach our targets on time. Beyond substituting for preferred, proven raw materials,&nbsp;the&nbsp;scaling of innovation, and&nbsp;the slowing down of continued growth in&nbsp;the&nbsp;annual production and consumption of new raw materials, are needed.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>The&nbsp;industry must focus on strategic fibers, too: those that represent&nbsp;the&nbsp;majority of&nbsp;the total global fiber volume and greenhouse gas impact.&nbsp;These include polyester, cotton, wool, bovine leather, nylon, and MMCFs, such as viscose.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Improving&nbsp;the&nbsp;data that guides sourcing decisions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Right now, data widely used to draw comparisons between&nbsp;the&nbsp;impacts of&nbsp;these fibers and guide sourcing decisions needs improvement. As written in&nbsp;the&nbsp;Fashion Charter for Climate Action\u2019s \u201cIdentifying Low Carbon&nbsp;Sources of Cotton and Polyester Fibers\u201d report, \u201cThe&nbsp;mapping of current LCA landscape for cotton and polyester (PET) revealed key data gaps, inconsistent modeling approaches and lack of standardized methodology, which makes it inappropriate to compare&nbsp;the&nbsp;environmental performance of one fiber over&nbsp;the other.&#8221;<br>&nbsp;<br>Overall, datasets lack geographic variability and transparency, and in general, existing&nbsp;LCAs are not comparable due to&nbsp;the&nbsp;following overarching issues:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Inconsistent time period of data collection&nbsp;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Credits applied for biogenic carbon stored in&nbsp;the&nbsp;product&nbsp;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Implication of choice of LCA software and use of different LCA databases&nbsp;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Use of different LCA methodology&nbsp;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>LCA methodology, when applied to raw materials used by&nbsp;the&nbsp;apparel, textile, and footwear industry, has some key limitations as it stands today. It does not capture all impact areas such as soil health, biodiversity, animal welfare and social impacts; can be cost-prohibitive and resource&nbsp;intensive;&nbsp;there can be significant variability in&nbsp;the&nbsp;scope of what is covered as well as in other assumptions that are made; system boundaries defined for LCA studies can vary within and across fiber types, and results&nbsp;from&nbsp;LCA studies can be present in multiples ways (e.g., \u201cglobal averages\u201d or regional impacts).&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>Most of&nbsp;the&nbsp;LCA data collected is at&nbsp;the&nbsp;global level and thus, not a full representation of country or regional production. So, we must recognize data quality and what&nbsp;the&nbsp;data covers. That\u2019s why we\u2019re developing an LCA+ approach to give&nbsp;the&nbsp;industry a more holistic way to fill key gaps in LCA data and methodologies, while also investing in&nbsp;the identification of additional impact data approaches to address other important impact areas not covered by LCA methodology today, such as biodiversity and soil health.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Slowing down growth in&nbsp;the&nbsp;production and extraction of new raw materials\u200b\u200b\u200b\u200b\u200b<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s also key to recognize that right now,&nbsp;the&nbsp;sheer amount of new raw materials being grown, produced, or extracted is a barrier to achieving&nbsp;the&nbsp;level of reduction needed. This volume is increasing year on year, but to reach a 45% by 2030, it needs to slow down significantly. If this area is neglected, any progress in&nbsp;the&nbsp;remaining areas will count for little.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Action here varies&nbsp;from&nbsp;fiber to fiber, but in every case, increasing&nbsp;the&nbsp;volume of feedstocks\u2014the&nbsp;raw material used for&nbsp;the&nbsp;process and manufacture of fibers\u2014made&nbsp;from waste will dramatically limit&nbsp;the&nbsp;need to produce. Additionally, to start creating value outside of producing and extracting new raw materials, we must support systems that extend&nbsp;the&nbsp;usable life of garments such as resale and repair.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>At&nbsp;the&nbsp;design level, creating clothing with durability, longevity, recycling potential, and other circular end-of-life qualities in mind is key. Designing with a purpose is&nbsp;the&nbsp;first step towards responsible creation, and that can have a ripple effect across an entire supply network.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sharing&nbsp;the&nbsp;responsibility across&nbsp;the&nbsp;supply chain<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Government engagement can support and enforce waste reduction and collection to help scale recycling efforts and technologies. Informed policy and regulation allow for&nbsp;the&nbsp;rapid development of systems and mechanisms to level&nbsp;the&nbsp;playing field, and create true systemic change.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>But no one organization can do this alone.&nbsp;The&nbsp;responsibility for gathering data, improving data quality, designing for longevity and circularity, and investing wisely falls on all of us, across&nbsp;the&nbsp;fashion, apparel, and textile industry. We face a global challenge which by definition involves everyone and tackling it must&nbsp;therefore involve everyone as well.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>There are no silver-bullet solutions for systems change, and this transition comes with both risks and rewards. All too often, this financial burden falls on those furthest away&nbsp;from&nbsp;the final product. Putting&nbsp;the&nbsp;pressure on farmers, growers, and producers won\u2019t lead us to sustainable change\u2013instead, it\u2019s about ensuring that those at&nbsp;the&nbsp;beginning of&nbsp;the&nbsp;supply chain are rewarded and valued for positive change that impacts&nbsp;the&nbsp;entire industry.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>We need to make&nbsp;the&nbsp;most of our existing efforts, across all programs and schemes, and look to opportunities to strengthen&nbsp;them, maximizing&nbsp;the&nbsp;potential for beneficial outcomes. We need to secure supply and consider climate adaptation and resilience measures. And we need to incentivize scalable solutions that reward our partners on&nbsp;the&nbsp;ground, at&nbsp;the farm level, who are at&nbsp;the&nbsp;forefront of&nbsp;the&nbsp;movement.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>For all this to happen, we must form new kinds of partnerships and new ways of working: closer collaboration, greater innovation, and a firm shared commitment to standing side by side in playing our parts.&nbsp;The&nbsp;time for working in isolation, for treating problems as standalone and abstracted&nbsp;from&nbsp;the&nbsp;whole, is over.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>Now, we have to view our absolutely critical work in its proper context, setting exploitative competitive business models aside, and approach climate action with&nbsp;the&nbsp;whole system\u2014including&nbsp;the&nbsp;communities affected\u2014in mind.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator aligncenter has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Learn more<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><br>In our&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/go.textileexchange.org\/e\/978973\/a12-e920a088b9b0-forceDialog-0\/56zmg\/415530481?h=FUSVLMnSzJgKB0gajxpyry7aLrntKgfS2LZS-00OloA\">report<\/a>, \u201cFiber Pathways:&nbsp;The&nbsp;Road to a 45% Reduction,\u201d we\u2019ve provided clear guidance on actions to take and areas to focus on by strategic fiber type: polyester, cotton, viscose, and wool. We uncover what we know as an industry, what we need to solve for, and which specific solutions we need to pilot, advance, and commercialize. Leather and nylon will be included in&nbsp;the&nbsp;next phase as we continue to build upon this work.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>Each year, we will expand on our guidance as we learn and make progress, solve for gaps, and identify new opportunities to move forwards. This is just&nbsp;the&nbsp;start of an evolving roadmap, but&nbsp;<em>now<\/em>&nbsp;is&nbsp;the&nbsp;time to start aligning and acting on what we&nbsp;<em>know<\/em>&nbsp;can move&nbsp;the needle.&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Our director of Fibers and Materials, \u200b\u200b\u200b\u200b\u200bMegan Stoneburner outlines the pathway to a 45% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions fo strategic fiber types.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":66,"featured_media":40021,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"40407,40962,41087,41093,38975","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","_themeisle_gutenberg_block_has_review":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[437,443],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-41100","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-437","category-our-experts"],"acf":[],"eight29_custom":[],"featured_image":{"thumbnail":{"src":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2023\/01\/AdobeStock_450667290-1-190x106.jpeg","width":190,"height":106,"srcset":"https:\/\/textileexchange.org\/app\/uploads\/2023\/01\/AdobeStock_450667290-1-190x106.jpeg 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